Days Twenty-Nine – Thirty-Two: Culture Shocked
with me. Let’s start with Thursday.
We said our goodbyes and left TCDC on Thursday morning. The non-Duke
kids departed to Arusha and the surrounding areas, while all twelve of
us piled onto a TCDC bus en route to Moshi. We first stopped at
Machame, then to Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Center (KCMC), and
finally to Kibosho before stopping for a quick lunch in Moshi. We went
to a bakery called Abbasali Hot Breads, presumably owned by an Indian
or Pakistani specializing in fresh bread, pastries, and the like.
After wolfing down a few samosas, we set back on the road, stopping in
Marangu, and finally reaching Rombo around 4:00pm.
The bus dropped us off right in front of our house, where we were
greeted by Marcella, a nurse who doubles as a housekeeper for the
volunteers who come to work at Huruma. It was apparent almost
immediately that she spoke very little English – something that we
would find to be common in this region of Tanzania. Our house was
separated into two buildings – one with four bedrooms and a central
living room, and another with the kitchen, laundry room, shower, and
restroom. After a quick glance around the place, Spencer and I each
quickly unpacked into our own rooms and headed out with Marcella, as
she had offered to help us with groceries and settling in at first.
We headed out to the sokoni, where we were surprised at the selection
of vegetables and fruits available in such a small town. We bought
some ndizi (bananas), machungwa (oranges), nyanya (tomatoes), vitunguu
(onions), karoti (carrots), pilipili hoho (green peppers), parachichi
(avocadoes), and maharage (beans). Both of us returned anxious and
excited to cook our first meal in our new home.
Unfortunately, that euphoria lasted all of ten minutes. We came home
and turned on the lights, only to discover that we did not have power.
We headed to the kitchen and found that our entire set of appliances –
stove, oven, and refrigerator, all required electricity – meaning that
we would not be able to cook anything until the power returned.
We called Marcella and attempted to explain our predicament in broken
Swahili. She replied with a ‘yes, maybe I’m coming’ – the phrase which
we would quickly learn to mean that she had no idea what we were
trying to say. She came to visit us again, and after a series of
questions we learned that rolling blackouts had been commonplace in
Rombo for a few months now. We would have power during the day
(6am-6pm) on Mondays, Saturdays, and Sundays, and would have power
during the night (6pm-6am) on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday
nights. Despite this schedule, we did not have power on this Thursday
night, indicating that the blackouts did not necessarily have to
follow the timetable that Marcella had provided for us. This
significantly dimmed our hopes of cooking that night and cooking in
general.
Since it was already dark, and asked if there were any restaurants
nearby. She led us to the Lutheran Hostel Restaurant, (which at the
time seemed like an eternity’s walk away but in reality is only ten
minutes from our home), which boasted a pretty expansive African and
Western menu.
As is custom in most African restaurants, only a few dishes on the
menu are regularly available – the other items may be available on a
day to day basis. After realizing that the vast majority of the dishes
on the menu were unavailable for that evening, I settled on some
curried chicken and rice. After nearly a two hour wait – as is also
custom in most African restaurants – we finally received our food. It
was pretty good, but not as great as the food I had grown accustomed
to at Mama Elda’s at TCDC. Slightly disappointed with the overall
progress of the day, we quietly walked back home with Marcella.
As I gazed up at the awesome African night sky, I couldn’t help but
feel as if I was alone. This small town, essentially goes dark and
silent after the sun sets, was to be my home for the next month. One
of the things I had looked forward to the most about this month –
being able to cook my own food at my own leisure – did not seem
possible. I was disappointed, frustrated, and despondent that the next
month of my life was going to be very, very difficult.
Waking up at 7:00am is difficult as it is, but waking up in a tangled
mess of mosquito net and attempting to turn on the lights in my room,
only to find that we were still without power made it all that more
difficult to get out of bed. I walked over to the shower room and
turned on the water heater, then proceeded to brush my teeth and get
ready to take a shower.
The seconds that followed my turning on the shower were probably the
most surprising and unpleasant of my life. Rombo is at a relatively
high altitude, and it’s definitely chilly in the morning. Shivering, I
turned on the water, expecting a warm and pleasant shower. Instead, I
was met with a jet of water that could have been colder than ice. It
was then that I realized that we did not have a hot water heater – we
had an electrically-powered heating shower head. Unfortunately, seeing
as there was no power, this shower head did not succeed in heating the
water in any way. So, I proceeded to take the coldest shower of my
life, vowing to never use that shower head again. That night, I heated
water in a pot and used that water to take a bucket shower with hot
water. It wasn’t a shower like back home, but at least I’d be able to
take a hot bath when the power was on.
Marcella picked us up from the house at 7:45 and walked with us to the
hospital, which was only a two minute walk across the street. She led
us to a relatively large room, where the hospital staff had gathered
for the morning prayer. We stood in the back of the room, sticking out
like two sore thumbs as the entire room began to sing a
beautiful-sounding hymn. After the song, one of the nuns took to the
front of the room and made a few announcements in Swahili. Then, to
our surprise, she broke into English, stating that there were two new
guests at the hospital, and asked that we introduce ourselves. We
slowly made our way to the front of the room, where everyone was
watching us with bated breath. We introduced ourselves in belabored
Swahili, explaining that we were volunteer engineers who would be
working with medical equipment at the hospital for the next month. The
head nun noticed that we were speaking quite slowly and deliberately,
so she politely informed us that we were allowed to speak in English.
Spencer and I both sighed with relief – and the entire room broke out
into laughter. Yeah, I felt a little like a fool for trying to impress
them with my Swahili; but in the end I thought it was worth it.
Immediately after prayer, we were whisked away by the head nun (whose
name we learned was Dr. Rena) to a smaller meeting room, where we were
introduced to all of the physicians at the hospital. We again
explained who we were and what we would be working with for the next
month. After introductions, Dr. Rena led off the morning meeting for
the doctors, where they discussed prominent cases from the previous
day and night. This, unfortunately, was all in Swahili, so it went
over our head – but it was still pretty cool to be included in the
meeting itself.
When the meeting was over, Dr. Rena led us to the minor operating
theater, where she said that an operating table was not working
correctly. She let us into the room, where a doctor and a nurse were
attending to a man who was bleeding profusely from his hand. It
appeared that he had sustained a serious thumb injury, and his wound
needed a significant amount of dressing. What struck me at first was
the fact that he was standing up – and then I realized that there was
nowhere for him to sit, because the table in the center of the room
had been raised to a height that made it impossible for anyone to sit
on it. Thus, our fixing the table would make it amenable for this man
to rest more comfortably as his bleeding hand was attended to.
Obviously, this added an element of pressure to what was already our
first attempt at fixing a piece of equipment.
Operating tables are usually adjustable for height. They can be raised
or lowered, in a mechanism similar to an office chair. One pedal
allows the table to go up, while another allows the table to go down.
In this case, the down pedal was missing two screws, which kept it
from sitting firmly on the assembly and prevented anyone from properly
pressing the pedal down. This was easy enough to fix – we luckily
found two screws of similar size in the room itself (probably the
original screws that simply fell out) and placed them back in the
proper positions. We lowered the table to its lowest setting, and the
bleeding man finally got to sit down as the doctor and nurse finished
dressing his wound.
Obviously, the rest of the day was less intense. Dr. Rena introduced
us to a nursing student named Joshua, who gave us a grand tour of the
entire hospital, which took almost three hours. We went home for a
brief lunch break before returning to the major operating theater,
where we had promised to pick up some broken equipment during our tour
of the hospital. With two blood pressure cuffs, an automatic blood
pressure monitor, and a pulse oximeter in hand, we headed back to the
house to work on the equipment with the rest of our tools. It turned
out that both the pulse oximeter and automatic BP machine only needed
batteries, and that the two cuffs were minor leaks – all very easy
fixes. We went back to the hospital, returned the equipment to the
operating theater, and headed back home for the day. It was quite the
productive first day.
That night, we miraculously had electricity, so we proceeded with our
plan to cook our first meal at home. With the ingredients we had, we
made vegetarian chili and guacamole. Unfortunately, the power went out
intermittently during our cooking process, so both the beans and
carrots were undercooked by the time we ate them. It wasn’t the
greatest meal, but it sufficed.
On Saturday, we decided to head to Moshi and explore the city. It took
around one and a half hours to reach by Noah, a minivan packed tightly
with ten passengers in addition to the driver. We met up with a few
friends for lunch at a place called Indoitaliano – which served, as
you might think, both Indian and Italian food. It was pricey, but
pretty delicious. We hung out and talked at the restaurant for a while
before heading to the market area, where we met up with a few more
EWH-ers. We all decided to spend the night with our friends staying in
Kibosho, a small town just north of Moshi at the foot of Mount
Kilimanjaro. We were all craving some home cooked food – so we decided
to buy some ground beef from a butcher shop at the market, cheese and
bread from the hot breads shop, and a few vegetables to make some old
fashioned, American-style cheeseburgers. Although it took some time to
do all the prep work, the resulting burgers made everything
worthwhile.
We spent the night at Kibosho, and made our way back to Moshi then
Rombo this afternoon. The past few days definitey raised my spirits
from where they were on Thursday, but I’m still a little apprehensive
about our living and eating situations while in Rombo for the next
month. Weekends will surely be a good time, but staying active and
having fresh food everyday is still something that worries me. Here’s
to hoping this first full week in Rombo goes well. Until next time, kwaheri! Cheers,
Amogh
